A recumbent trike stands on its three wheels. Without a locking handbrake, it can also run away. Most, but not all, trikes have a pin in the handbrake mechanism that will lock the brake in demand. Here is a solution for handbrakes without a pin, or where using the pin causes problems.
Types of Locking Handbrakes
I have only seen two types of locking handbrakes – pin and drag brakes. They both have good and bad points – as listed below.
Pin Brakes
Most trikes have a pin that can be pushed through the mechanism to hold the brake on. Squeezing the handle will release it.
Since the handbrakes typically operate on one wheel, the same goes for the lock. I usually only set one side – the wheel I will hold to lever myself out of my seat.
The Good Points
- It is possible, although sometimes tricky, to apply the brake lock with one hand.
- It is a standard component of many recumbent trikes. A brake lock is not used on upright bikes, making the brake handle a specialist component.
The Not-so-good Points
- In all the examples I have used, the lock requires adjusting the brakes to bight when the brake handle is almost entirely open.
- When the cable stretches and the pads wear, the brake lock fails to work until you make adjustments. I found this a continuing problem on my trikes with disc brakes. The Greenspeed with drum brakes stays in the zone for a long time, counterintuitive if the main problem is cable stretch.
- To use the brake when it is adjusted for the pin lock can be a challenge for small hands or those with arthritis. It means having the handlebars in the groove between the thumb and index finger while pulling in the brake with the first joint of the other fingers.
- The locking pin is at the base of the brake handle. Holding the brakes on while pushing the pin-lock with a pinky requires dexterity. Reaching across with the other hand to reach the lock is not easy either.
Drag Brakes
I have only seen drag brakes on HP Velotechnik trikes. It consists of rim brake pads on the rear wheel and a rotary level low down on a handlebar. I have been told that they are used to slowing the pace when going downhill. I have never used mine that way, but I see sense in not having to ride the handbrakes.
They also make an excellent locking brake.
The Good Points
- They are easy to use.
- The braking works well since the rotary lever can account for wear.
The Not-so-good Points
- It is easy to forget to release the drag before riding off.
- The design is best implemented during manufacture.
- The mechanism is not readily available and would be challenging to retrofit.
The Brake Strap
A brake strap is easy to make now that many hook-and-loop manufacturers sell strapping rolls with the hooks on one side and loops on the other. Cut off a healthy length, pull the brakes tight and wrap it around the break and handlebars.
To release, grip the brake, pull the strap up and drop it around the handlebar only. Reverse the procedure when you need to lock the brakes.
The Good Points
- Adjusting the strap length to account for cable stretch or brake pad wear requires unwrapping and re-wrapping the hook and loop.
- A brake strap will work even if the brake handle is adjusted to grip when close to the handlebars. A configuration like this is easier on small hands and arthritis sufferers.
The Not-so-good Points
- Two hands are required to set or release the brake lock.
- If you use white hook-and-loop, it starts to look grubby.
Conclusion
Let me know below how well your current locking solution works for you.
If a pin brake lock works for you, stick to it. Use it in conjunction with the strap if that helps. Drop me a line if you are having trouble getting the hook-and-loop tape. I can post you a piece. Meanwhile, happy riding.